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Following The Equator

Mark Twain

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CHAPTER I: The Party - Across America to Vancouver - On Board the Warrimo - Steamer Chairs-The Captain-Going Home under a Cloud - A Gritty Purser - The Brightest Passenger - Remedy for Bad Habits - The Doctor and the Lumbago - A Moral Pauper - Limited Smoking - Remittance-men.

CHAPTER II: Change of Costume - Fish, Snake, and Boomerang Stories - Tests of Memory - A Brahmin Expert - General Grant's Memory - A Delicately Improper Tale

CHAPTER III: Honolulu - Reminiscences of the Sandwich Islands - King Liholiho and His Royal Equipment - The Tabu - The Population of the Island - A Kanaka Diver - Cholera at Honolulu - Honolulu; Past and Present - The Leper Colony

CHAPTER IV: Leaving Honolulu - Flying-fish - Approaching the Equator - Why the Ship Went Slow - The Front Yard of the Ship - Crossing the Equator - Horse Billiards or Shovel Board - The Waterbury Watch - Washing Decks - Ship Painters - The Great Meridian - The Loss of a Day - A Babe without a Birthday

CHAPTER V: A lesson in Pronunciation - Reverence for Robert Burns - The Southern Cross - Troublesome Constellations - Victoria for a Name - Islands on the Map - Alofa and Fortuna - Recruiting for the Queensland Plantations-Captain Warren's NoteBook - Recruiting not thoroughly Popular

CHAPTER VI: Missionaries Obstruct Business - The Sugar Planter and the Kanaka-The Planter's View - Civilizing the Kanaka The Missionary's View - The Result-Repentant Kanakas - Wrinkles - The Death Rate in Queensland

CHAPTER VII: The Fiji Islands - Suva - The Ship from Duluth - Going Ashore - Midwinter in Fiji - Seeing the Governor - Why Fiji was Ceded to England - Old time Fijians - Convicts among the Fijians - A Case Where Marriage was a Failure Immortality with Limitations.

CHAPTER VIII: A Wilderness of Islands - Two Men without a Country - A Naturalist from New Zealand - The Fauna of Australasia - Animals, Insects, and Birds - The Ornithorhynchus - Poetry and Plagiarism

CHAPTER IX: Close to Australia - Porpoises at Night - Entrance to Sydney Harbor-The Loss of the Duncan Dunbar - The Harbor - The City of Sydney - Spring-time in Australia - The Climate - Information for Travelers - The Size of Australia - A Dust-Storm and Hot Wind

CHAPTER X: The Discovery of Australia - Transportation of Convicts - Discipline-English Laws, Ancient and Modern - Flogging Prisoners to Death - Arrival of Settlers - New South Wales Corps - Rum Currency - Intemperance Everywhere $100,000 for One Gallon of Rum - Development of the Country - Immense Resources

CHAPTER XI. Hospitality of English-speaking People - Writers and their Gratitude - Mr. Gane and the Panegyrics - Population of Sydney An English City with American Trimming-'Squatters' - Palaces and Sheep Kingdoms - Wool and Mutton - Australians and Americans - Costermonger Pronunciation - England is 'Home' - Table Talk - English and Colonial Audiences

CHAPTER XII: Mr. X., a Missionary - Why Christianity Makes Slow Progress in India-A Large Dream - Hindoo Miracles and Legends - Sampson and Hanuman - The Sandstone Ridge - Where are the Gates?

CHAPTER XIII: Public Works in Australasia - Botanical Garden of Sydney - Four Special Socialties - The Government House - A Governor and His Functions - The Admiralty House - The Tour of the Harbor - Shark Fishing - Cecil Rhodes' Shark and his First Fortune - Free Board for Sharks.

CHAPTER XIV: Bad Health - To Melbourne by Rail - Maps Defective - The Colony of Victoria - A Round-trip Ticket from Sydney - Change Cars, from Wide to Narrow Gauge, a Peculiarity at Albury - Customs-fences-'My Word' - The Blue Mountains - Rabbit Piles - Government R. R. Restaurants - Duchesses for Waiters-'Sheep-dip' - Railroad Coffee - Things Seen and Not Seen

CHAPTER XV: Wagga-Wagga - The Tichborne Claimant - A Stock Mystery - The Plan of the Romance - The Realization - The Henry Bascom Mystery - Bascom Hall - The Author's Death and Funeral

CHAPTER XVI: Melbourne and its Attractions - The Melbourne Cup Races - Cup Day - Great Crowds - Clothes Regardless of Cost - The Australian Larrikin - Is He Dead? Australian Hospitality - Melbourne Wool-brokers - The Museums - The Palaces - The Origin of Melbourne

CHAPTER XVII: The British Empire - Its Exports and Imports - The Trade of Australia - To Adelaide - Broken Hill Silver Mine - A Roundabout road - The Scrub and its Possibilities for the Novelist - The Aboriginal Tracker - A Test Case - How Does One Cow-Track Differ from Another?

CHAPTER XVIII: Gum Trees - Unsociable Trees - Gorse and Broom - A universal Defect - An Adventurer - Wanted L200, got L20,000,000 - A Vast Land Scheme - The Smashup - The Corpse Got Up and Danced - A Unique Business by One Man-Buying the Kangaroo Skin - The Approach to Adelaide - Everything Comes to Him who Waits - A Healthy Religious sphere - What is the Matter with the Specter?

CHAPTER XIX: The Botanical Gardens - Contributions from all Countries - The Zoological Gardens of Adelaide - The Laughing Jackass - The Dingo - A Misnamed Province - Telegraphing from Melbourne to San Francisco - A Mania for Holidays - The Temperature - The Death Rate - Celebration of the Reading of the Proclamation of 1836 - Some old Settlers at the Commemoration - Their Staying Powers - The Intelligence of the Aboriginal-The Antiquity of the Boomerang

CHAPTER XX: A Caller - A Talk about Old Times - The Fox Hunt - An Accurate Judgment of an Idiot - How We Passed the Custom Officers in Italy

CHAPTER XXI: The 'Weet-Weet' - Keeping down the Population - Victoria - Killing the Aboriginals - Pioneer Days in Queensland - Material for a Drama - The Bush-Pudding with Arsenic Revenge - A Right Spirit but a Wrong Method - Death of Donga Billy

CHAPTER XXII: Continued Description of Aboriginals - Manly Qualities - Dodging Balls-Feats of Spring - Jumping - Where the Kangaroo Learned its Art 'Well Digging - Endurance - Surgery - Artistic Abilities - Fennimore Cooper's Last Chance - Australian Slang

CHAPTER XXIII: To Horsham (Colony of Victoria) - Description of Horsham - At the Hotel-Pepper Tree-The Agricultural College, Forty Pupils - High Temperature-Width of Road in Chains, Perches, etc. - The Bird with a Forgettable Name-The Magpie and the Lady - Fruit Trees - Soils - Sheep Shearing - To Stawell - Gold Mining Country - $75,000 per Month Income and able to Keep House-Fine Grapes and Wine - The Dryest Community on Earth - The Three Sisters-Gum Trees and Water

CHAPTER XXIV: Road to Ballarat - The City - Great Gold Strike, 1851 - Rush for Australia - 'Great Nuggets' - Taxation - Revolt and Victory - Peter Lalor and the Eureka Stockade-'Pencil Mark' - Fine Statuary at Ballarat - Population-Ballarat English

CHAPTER XXV: Bound for Bendigo - The Priest at Castlemaine - Time Saved by Walking-Description of Bendigo - A Valuable Nugget - Perseverence and Success-Mr. Blank and His Influence - Conveyance of an Idea - I Had to Like the Irishman - Corrigan Castle, and the Mark Twain Club - My Bascom Mystery Solved

CHAPTER XXVI: Where New Zealand Is - But Few Know - Things People Think They Know - The Yale Professor and His Visitor from N. Z.

CHAPTER XXVII: The South Pole Swell - Tasmania - Extermination of the Natives - The Picture Proclamation - The Conciliator - The Formidable Sixteen

CHAPTER XXVIII: When the Moment Comes the Man Appears - Why Ed. Jackson called on Commodore Vanderbilt - Their Interview - Welcome to the Child of His Friend - A Big Time but under Inspection - Sent on Important Business - A Visit to the Boys on the Boat

CHAPTER XXIX: Tasmania, Early Days - Description of the Town of Hobart - An Englishman's Love of Home Surroundings - Neatest City on Earth - The Museum - A Parrot with an Acquired Taste - Glass Arrow Beads - Refuge for the Indigent too healthy

CHAPTER XXX: Arrival at Bluff, N. Z. - Where the Rabbit Plague Began - The Natural Enemy of the Rabbit - Dunedin - A Lovely Town - Visit to Dr. Hockin - His Museum-A Liquified Caterpillar - The Unperfected Tape Worm - The Public Museum and Picture

CHAPTER XXXI: The Express Train-'A Hell of a Hotel at Maryborough'-Clocks and Bells - Railroad Service.

CHAPTER XXXII: Description of the Town of Christ Church - A Fine Museum - Jade-stone Trinkets - The Great Man - The First Maori in New Zealand - Women Voters-'Person' in New Zealand Law Includes Woman - Taming an Ornithorhynchus-A Voyage in the 'Flora' from Lyttelton - Cattle Stalls for Everybody-A Wonderful Time.

CHAPTER XXXIII: The Town of Nelson-'The Mongatapu Murders,' the Great Event of the Town - Burgess' Confession - Summit of Mount Eden - Rotorua and the Hot Lakes and Geysers - Thermal Springs District - Kauri Gum - Tangariwa Mountains .

CHAPTER XXXIV: The Bay of Gisborne - Taking in Passengers by the Yard Arm - The Green Ballarat Fly - False Teeth - From Napier to Hastings by the Ballarat Fly Train - Kauri Trees - A Case of Mental Telegraphy

CHAPTER XXXV: Fifty Miles in Four Hours - Comfortable Cars - Town of Wauganui - Plenty of Maoris - On the Increase - Compliments to the Maoris - The Missionary Ways all Wrong - The Tabu among the Maoris - A Mysterious Sign - Curious Warmonuments - Wellington .

CHAPTER XXXVI: The Poems of Mrs. Moore - The Sad Fate of William Upson - A Fellow Traveler Imitating the Prince of Wales - A Would-be Dude - Arrival at Sydney-Curious Town Names with Poem

CHAPTER XXXVII: From Sydney for Ceylon - A Lascar Crew - A Fine Ship - Three Cats and a Basket of Kittens - Dinner Conversations - Veuve Cliquot Wine - At Anchor in King George's Sound Albany Harbor - More Cats - A Vulture on Board - Nearing the Equator again - Dressing for Dinner - Ceylon, Hotel Bristol - Servant Brampy - A Feminine Man - Japanese Jinriksha or Cart - Scenes in Ceylon - A Missionary School - Insincerity of Clothes

CHAPTER XXXVIII: Steamer Rosettes to Bombay - Limes 14 cents a Barrel - Bombay, a Bewitching City - Descriptions of People and Dress - Woman as a Road Decoration-India, the Land of Dreams and Romance - Fourteen Porters to Carry Baggage-Correcting a Servant - Killing a Slave - Arranging a Bedroom - Three Hours' Work and a Terrible Racket - The Bird of Birds, the Indian Crow

CHAPTER XXXIX: God Vishnu, 108 Names - Change of Titles or Hunting for an Heir - Bombay as a Kaleidoscope - The Native's Man Servant - Servants' Recommendations - How Manuel got his Name and his English - Satan - A Visit from God

CHAPTER XL: The Government House at Malabar Point - Mansion of Kumar Shri Samatsin Hji Bahadur - The Indian Princess - A Difficult Game - Wardrobe and Jewels-Ceremonials - Decorations when Leaving - The Towers of Silence - A Funeral

CHAPTER XLI: Jain Temple - Mr. Roychand's Bungalow - A Decorated Six-Gun Prince - Human Fireworks - European Dress, Past and Present - Complexions - Advantages with the Zulu - Festivities at the Bungalow-Nautch Dancers - Entrance of the Prince - Address to the Prince

CHAPTER XLII: A Hindoo Betrothal, midnight, Sleepers on the ground, Home of the Bride of Twelve Years Dressed as a Boy - Illumination Nautch Girls - Imitating Snakes - Later - Illuminated Porch Filled with Sleepers - The Plague .

CHAPTER XLIII: Murder Trial in Bombay - Confidence Swindlers - Some Specialities of India-The Plague, Juggernaut, Suttee, etc. - Everything on Gigantic Scale -India First in Everything - 80 States, more Custom Houses than Cats - Rich Ground for Thug Society

CHAPTER XLIV: Thug Book - Supplies for Traveling, Bedding, and other Freight - Scene at Railway Station - Making Way for White Man - Waiting Passengers, High and Low Caste, Touch in the cars - Our Car - Beds made up - Dreaming of Thugs-Baroda - Meet Friends - Indian Well - The Old Town - Narrow Streets - A Mad Elephant

CHAPTER XLV: Elephant Riding - Howdahs - The New Palace - The Prince's Excursion - Gold and Silver Artillery - A Vice-royal Visit - Remarkable Dog - The Bench Show - Augustin Daly's Back Door - Fakeer

CHAPTER XLVI: The Thugs - Government Efforts to Exterminate them - Choking a Victim A Fakeer Spared - Thief Strangled

CHAPTER XLVII: Thugs, Continued - Record of Murders - A Joy of Hunting and Killing Men-Gordon Gumming - Killing an Elephant - Family Affection among Thugs-Burial Places

CHAPTER XLVIII: Starting for Allahabad - Lower Berths in Sleepers - Elderly Ladies have Preference of Berths - An American Lady Takes One Anyhow - How Smythe Lost his Berth - How He Got Even - The Suttee

CHAPTER XLIX: Pyjamas - Day Scene in India - Clothed in a Turban and a Pocket Handkerchief - Land Parceled Out - Established Village Servants - Witches in Families - Hereditary Midwifery - Destruction of Girl Babies - Wedding Display - Tiger-Persuader - Hailstorm Discourages - The Tyranny of the Sweeper - Elephant Driver - Water Carrier - Curious Rivers - Arrival at Allahabad - English Quarter - Lecture Hall Like a Snowstorm - Private Carriages - A Milliner - Early Morning - The Squatting Servant - A Religious Fair

CHAPTER L: On the Road to Benares - Dust and Waiting - The Bejeweled Crowd - A Native Prince and his Guard - Zenana Lady - The Extremes of Fashion - The Hotel at Benares - An Annex a Mile Away - Doors in India - The Peepul Tree - Warning against Cold Baths - A Strange Fruit - Description of Benares - The Beginning of Creation - Pilgrims to Benares - A Priest with a Good Business Stand - Protestant Missionary - The Trinity Brahma, Shiva, and Vishnu-Religion the Business at Benares

CHAPTER LI: Benares a Religious Temple - A Guide for Pilgrims to Save Time in Securing Salvation

CHAPTER LII: A Curious Way to Secure Salvation - The Banks of the Ganges - Architecture Represents Piety - A Trip on the River - Bathers and their Costumes-Drinking the Water - A Scientific Test of the Nasty Purifier - Hindoo Faith in the Ganges - A Cremation - Remembrances of the Suttee - All Life Sacred Except Human Life - The Goddess Bhowanee, and the Sacrificers - Sacred Monkeys - Ugly Idols Everywhere - Two White Minarets - A Great View with a Monkey in it - A Picture on the Water

CHAPTER LIII: Still in Benares - Another Living God - Why Things are Wonderful - Sri 108 Utterly Perfect - How He Came so - Our Visit to Sri - A Friendly Deity Exchanging Autographs and Books - Sri's Pupil - An Interesting Man-Reverence and Irreverence - Dancing in a Sepulchre

CHAPTER LIV: Rail to Calcutta - Population - The 'City of Palaces' - A Fluted Candlestick - Ochterlony - Newspaper Correspondence - Average Knowledge of Countries - A Wrong Idea of Chicago - Calcutta and the Black Hole-Description of the Horrors - Those Who Lived - The Botanical Gardens - The Afternoon Turnout - Grand Review - Military Tournament - Excursion on the Hoogly - The Museum - What Winter Means Calcutta .

CHAPTER LV: On the Road Again - Flannels in Order - Across Country - From Greenland's Icy Mountain - Swapping Civilization - No Field women in India - How it is in Other Countries - Canvas-covered Cars - The Tiger Country - My First Hunt Some Elephants Get Away - The Plains of India - The Ghurkas - Women for Pack-Horses - A Substitute for a Cab - Darjeeling - The Hotel - The Highest Thing in the Himalayas - The Club - Kinchinjunga and Mt. Everest-Thibetans - The Prayer Wheel - People Going to the Bazar

CHAPTER LVI: On the Road Again - The Hand-Car - A Thirty-five-mile Slide - The Banyan Tree - A Dramatic Performance - The Railroad - The Half-way House - The Brain Fever Bird - The Coppersmith Bird - Nightingales and Cue Owls

CHAPTER LVII: India the Most Extraordinary Country on Earth - Nothing Forgotten - The Land of Wonders - Annual Statistics Everywhere about Violence - Tiger vs. Man - A Handsome Fight - Annual Man Killing and Tiger Killing - Other Animals - Snakes - Insurance and Snake Tables - The Cobra Bite - Muzaffurpore - Dinapore - A Train that Stopped for Gossip - Six Hours for Thirty-five Miles - A Rupee to the Engineer - Ninety Miles an Hour - Again to Benares, the Piety Hive To Lucknow

CHAPTER LVIII: The Great Mutiny - The Massacre in Cawnpore - Terrible Scenes in Lucknow - The Residency - The Siege

CHAPTER LIX: A Visit to the Residency - Cawnpore - The Adjutant Bird and the Hindoo Corpse - The Tai Mahal - The True Conception - The Ice Storm - True Gems-Syrian Fountains - An Exaggerated Niagara

CHAPTER LX: To Lahore - The Governor's Elephant - Taking a Ride-No Danger from Collision - Rawal Pindi - Back to Delhi - An Orientalized Englishman-Monkeys and the Paint-pot - Monkey Crying over my Note-book - Arrival at Jeypore - In Rajputana - Watching Servants - The Jeypore Hotel - Our Old and New Satan - Satan as a Liar - The Museum - A Street Show - Blocks of Houses-A Religious Procession

CHAPTER LXI: Methods in American Deaf and Dumb Asylums - Methods in the Public Schools - A Letter from a youth in Punjab - Highly Educated Service - A Damage to the Country - A Little Book from Calcutta - Writing Poor English-Embarrassed by a Beggar Girl - A Specimen Letter - An Application for Employment - A Calcutta School Examination - Two Samples of Literature

CHAPTER LXII: Sail from Calcutta to Madras - Thence to Ceylon - Thence for Mauritius - The Indian Ocean - Our Captain's Peculiarity The Scot Has one too - The Flying-fish that Went Hunting in the Field - Fined for Smuggling - Lots of pets on Board - The Color of the Sea - The Most Important Member of Nature's Family - The Captain's Story of Cold Weather - Omissions in the Ship's Library - Washing Decks - Pyjamas on Deck - The Cat's Toilet - No Interest in the Bulletin - Perfect Rest - The Milky Way and the Magellan Clouds - Mauritius - Port Louis - A Hot Country - Under French Control-A Variety of People and Complexions - Train to Curepipe - A Wonderful Office-holder - The Wooden Peg Ornament - The Prominent Historical Event of Mauritius-'Paul and Virginia' - One of Virginia's Wedding Gifts - Heaven Copied after Mauritius - Early History of Mauritius - Quarantines-Population of all Kinds - What the World Consists of - Where Russia and Germany are - A Picture of Milan Cathedral - Newspapers - The Language - Best Sugar in the World - Literature of Mauritius

CHAPTER LXIII: Port Louis - Matches no Good - Good Roads - Death Notices - Why European Nations Rob Each Other - What Immigrants to Mauritius Do - Population-Labor Wages - The Camaron - The Palmiste and other Eatables - Monkeys - The Cyclone of 1892 - Mauritius a Sunday Landscape

CHAPTER LXIV: The Steamer 'Arundel Castle' - Poor Beds in Ships - The Beds in Noah's Ark-Getting a Rest in Europe - Ship in Sight - Mozambique Channel - The Engineer and the Band - Thackeray's 'Madagascar' - Africanders Going Home-Singing on the After Deck - An Out-of-Place Story - Dynamite Explosion in Johannesburg - Entering Delagoa Bay - Ashore - A Hot Winter - Small Town - No Sights - No Carriages - Working Women - Barnum's Purchase of Shakespeare's Birthplace, Jumbo, and the Nelson Monument - Arrival at Durban

CHAPTER LXV: Royal Hotel Durban - Bells that Did not Ring - Early Inquiries for Comforts - Change of Temperature after Sunset-Rickhaws - The Hotel Chameleon-Natives not out after the Bell - Preponderance of Blacks in Natal - Hair Fashions in Natal - Zulus for Police - A Drive round the Berea - The Cactus and other Trees - Religion a Vital Matter - Peculiar Views about Babies-Zulu Kings - A Trappist Monastery - Transvaal Politics - Reasons why the Trouble came About

CHAPTER LXVI: Jameson over the Border - His Defeat and Capture - Sent to England for Trial - Arrest of Citizens by the Boers - Commuted sentences - Final Release of all but Two - Interesting Days for a Stranger - Hard to Understand Either Side - What the Reformers Expected to Accomplish - How They Proposed to do it - Testimonies a Year Later - A 'Woman's Part' - The Truth of the South African Situation-'Jameson's Ride' - A Poem

CHAPTER LXVII: Jameson's Raid - The Reform Committee's Difficult Task - Possible Plans-Advice that Jameson Ought to Have - The War of 1881 and its Lessons-Statistics of Losses of the Combatants - Jameson's Battles - Losses on Both Sides - The Military Errors - How the Warfare Should Have Been Carried on to Be Successful

CHAPTER LXVIII: Judicious Mr. Rhodes - What South Africa Consists of - Johannesburg - The Gold Mines - The Heaven of American Engineers - What the Author Knows about Mining - Description of the Boer - What Should be Expected of Him - What Was A Dizzy Jump for Rhodes - Taxes - Rhodesian Method of Reducing Native Population - Journeying in Cape Colony - The Cars - The Country - The Weather - Tamed Blacks - Familiar Figures in King William's Town - Boer Dress - Boer Country Life - Sleeping Accommodations - The Reformers in Boer Prison - Torturing a Black Prisoner

CHAPTER LXIX: An Absorbing Novelty - The Kimberley Diamond Mines - Discovery of Diamonds - The Wronged Stranger - Where the Gems Are - A Judicious Change of Boundary - Modern Machinery and Appliances - Thrilling Excitement in Finding a Diamond - Testing a Diamond - Fences - Deep Mining by Natives in the Compound - Stealing - Reward for the Biggest Diamond - A Fortune in Wine - The Great Diamond - Office of the De Beer Co. - Sorting the Gems-Cape Town - The Most Imposing Man in British Provinces - Various Reasons for his Supremacy - How He Makes Friends

CONCLUSION: Table Rock - Table Bay - The Castle - Government and Parliament - The Club-Dutch Mansions and their Hospitality - Dr. John Barry and his Doings - On the Ship Norman - Madeira - Arrived in Southampton .